Proper Proportion: Lapels, Collars and Ties

November 1st, 2014 admin

I have a few husband-and-wife-clients and, during joint appointments, I often get asked which I like better: menswear or womenswear. It’s like asking someone which of their children they prefer. They each have unique qualities that I love and I love them equally. The emotion evoked by the drastic swing of the womenswear pendulum is just as exciting to me as the technicality of menswear and the impact that 1/2 inch shifts make on a suiting presentation. It’s the best of both worlds.

That said, menswear can be a bit more complicated because it is so specific. Menswear is very formulaic and most men understand suiting and suiting accoutrements at a basic level (suit + shirt + tie + pocket square = business attire). Fewer men understand it from a proportional standpoint and, unfortunately for those who don’t, the relationship between lapel, collar and tie greatly impacts the overall look. The movement toward slimmer suits and wider collar spreads only complicates the matter further. In an effort to simplify things, use this as your guide to balancing proportions:

• THE MEASUREMENT OF THE TIE AT ITS WIDEST POINT SHOULD MATCH THE WIDTH OF THE LAPEL AT ITS WIDEST POINT

• THE MEASUREMENT OF THE TIE AT ITS WIDEST POINT SHOULD BE SIMILAR TO THE WIDTH OF THE SHIRT COLLAR

• THE TIE KNOT SHOULD FILL THE SPACE WHERE THE COLLAR OPENS

There you have it. Use the above as your rule of thumb when getting dressed and you will always look proportional. Any questions? Just ask ali@alicallconsulting.com.